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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.